3+ Weeks Deep into Japan

Holy smokes! Where has the time gone? I’m a bit disappointed that I haven’t made a blog post until now, but I suppose it’s a good thing that I’m spending more time enjoying my trip than documenting it. I’ll try to make this post quick yet thorough!

Japan has been absolutely amazing and I am so SO glad that I decided to embark on this journey. I was a tad bit nervous before boarding my plane from Denver. I imagined that I would wake up one day during my first week in Japan as an anxiety-ridden mess and ask myself “Wait, what the hell am I doing?” but that has surely not been the case. The train systems, lodging, “Conbinis” (convenience stores), etc are all set up in a way that make getting around quite idiot-proof even if you don’t know the language. The social culture is an introvert’s dream – solo dining is incredibly normal, and even though public spaces are packed with people, everyone is very polite, quiet and follow a logical social etiquette. In other words, people just like to mind their own damn business out here.

Here’s a quick summary of how I’ve spent my past few weeks…

Week 1 – Tokyo (Akihabara and Koenji) & Chiba

  • So much walking and eating! I guess this has been a theme for the whole trip so far. Koenji is known for their vintage shops so it was fun to see what was trendy in Japan.
  • Checked out several stationary and art supply stores (Itoya, Sekaido). I love the strong appreciation for premium writing utensils here.
  • Watched a living art exhibit in Ueno Park.
  • Spent a day in an internet cafe with self-serve whiskey on tap and rooftop sauna access.
  • Stayed in a half-hostel, half-bar.
  • Dipped my toes into the world of wood block printing by visiting The Sumida Hokusai Museum. I loved seeing all of Katsushida Hokusai’s original sketchbooks.
  • Traveled to Chiba for a few days to check out the town that my mom grew up in. Right as I pulled up to the neighborhood, I noticed a neighbor lady walking her pet PIG on a leash. Frickin’ awesome.
  • Had a steak served over udon noodles at a Texas-themed saloon called “Red River Saloon” where the staff wore cowboy hats and the interior was decorated with American flags, neon Budweiser signs and fake guns.

Week 2 – Sakura & Tokyo (Kichijoji)

  • Went to the National Museum of Japanese History in Sakura. I spent almost 3 hours there, but I wish I had spent the entire day there. Being the map freak that I am, I appreciated seeing some of the first records of illustrated world maps in Japan. And of course the WWII exhibit was crazy to look at.
  • Had the most tender and delicious piece of fish ever! It was a miso glazed silver cod teishoku. I was taking the tiniest bites of it because it was so flavorful. I wanted to savor every bite and I never wanted it to end.
  • Went to a jazz bar LOL. Felt so classy.
  • Attended a music festival called Musafes Kichijoji. All different types of alternative Japanese rock. I take back any statements that I’ve made in the past about the Japanese not having music and cheese figured out yet…. their music is actually awesome (but I still have yet to be proven wrong about the cheese).

Week 3 & 4 – Karuizawa & Nagano

  • Almost done with my 2 week long Mokuhanga residency in Karuizawa! Mokuhanga is a woodblock printing technique with water based inks on washi (Japanese paper handmade from mulberry bark and other fancy and natural ingredients). Great experience!
  • Saw the sassy little snow monkeys at Jigokudani Yaenkoen, soaking up the natural hot spring waters and picking bugs out of each others fur. God I love monkeys and these guys were just so fun to watch.

Hopefully it won’t be too long until I make another post!